“The biggest challenge in this industry is to create your own legacy of trust and goodwill of clients.”
Pune-based, 24-year-old part ACCA qualified Karneet Kaur Narang, ventured into the world of gemmology to gain a skill where her creativity and knowledge of finance administration could be put to use. Bored of a desk job, she quit to start her own jewellery business. While her firm KAJEWELS believes in creating bespoke jewellery using different gemstones for its clients, her personal favourite is the diamond.
Karneet Kaur Narang in conversation with A.Radhakrishnan.
Who is a gemmologist?
A gemmologist is a person who studies gemstones formed by natural minerals in the earth surface. Of the 2,000 identified natural minerals, fewer than 100 are used as gemstones and only 16 have achieved importance due to their look, formation and uniqueness. A gemmologist identifies these gemstones and separates them from their man- made imitations.
What inspired you to pursue a career in gemology, switching from C.A to opening ‘Kajewels’?
While pursuing my Masters in London, I was in search for my calling as I was not satisfied with my desk job as an accountant in London. I wanted to pursue a skill where I could put my creativity to use as well as my grasp of finance administration. I was always attracted to the vast world of nature`s masterpieces in the form of gemstones, hence decided to study gemmology. I completed my Gemmology studies at GIA, India. It was a six months intense course. The first two months we learnt about only diamonds and the various standards to follow while grading them. The remaining four months we took a deep dive into the world of coloured gems, where we identified more than 60 species of gemstones, distinguished laboratory-grown gems and learned about gem treatments.
The six months course was not easy for me as I didn’t have a family background in the gem and jewellery industry, nor was I a very bright science student. But with continuous faith in my ability and hunger to learn, I completed my course. Today, as a gemologist I have deep rooted knowledge of the business, finance and marketing world, and I am trying to use my skills in the Gem and Jewellery world.
Why KAJEWELS?
The name ‘KAJEWELS’ signifies two things – KAJ means shubh karya in Punjabi and jewels mean precious jewellery. Hence it is a brand built on good deeds, trust the purity of precious gemstones, metals, and creative designs. Creating beautiful bespoke jewellery for clients who will treasure them for generations to come is the most satisfying job done at KAJEWELS.
What does gemmology entail?
Gemmology is an amalgamation of science and the art of studying gemstones using mineralogical criteria. A gemmologist is a skilled person who identifies and describes gems based on their characteristic pleochroism, refractive index, dispersion, specific gravity, hardness, fracture and lustre.
What do you think are the key skills necessary for a successful career in gemmology?
Gem identification; Spectroscopy (study of the absorption and emission of light and other radiation by matter); Microscopy (the technical field of using microscopes to view samples & objects that cannot be seen with the unaided eye); Refractometry (a technique that measures how light is refracted when it passes through a given substance); Diamond grading; Colour stones grading (ruby, emerald, sapphires); Jewelry Appraisal and Computer Aided Design (CAD) are some of the requisite skills required.
What is most challenging about this business? What do you think are the most exciting aspects of gemmology?
The biggest challenge in this industry is to create your own legacy of trust. There are generational jewellers who rule this industry. Some have done exceptional jobs at creating transparency and trust whereas there have been quite a few incidents of frauds in this industry.
Hence creating a legacy of trust and goodwill is the biggest challenge. But fortunately with certifications of gemstones by reputed institutes like IGI (International Gemological Institute)/ GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and many more, re-gaining the trust of public in the gem and jewellery industry is improving.
As a gemmologist, you get to magnify the beautiful creation of Nature. Each gemstone has its own imperfections that add to its beauty and helps a gemmologist identify the gemstones and understand various aspects of its formation, origin and creation.
How do you recruit your team?
We recruit on the basis of reference, as at KAJEWELS we believe in quality. Hence we look at trustworthy, hardworking, creative individuals who would not only add, but also create value at the workspace.
What is the impact of gem mining on environment?
Previously there have been negative impacts of mining on the environment leading to soil erosion, water contamination, danger to animal species and greenhouse gas emissions. But with growing awareness about ethical mining in the last few years, mining companies have started focusing on employee health, working standards, and taking decisions keeping in mind the impact of mining on nature and not just making profits.
What is the difference between natural and synthetic gems? Do you work with synthetic gemstones?
Natural gemstones are formed within the earth surfaces by various minerals under specific temperature and pressure. They hold more value because of their formation process and the fact that they are rarer. Additionally, natural stones can have unique characteristics and imperfections that make them even more valuable.
Whereas synthetic stones are man-made to imitate the natural stones and have no inclusions or imperfections and hence hold lesser value.
How do select and procure the stones?
We buy our stones from the manufacturers of gemstones who cut and polish raw gemstones into various shapes used in jewellery.
Is there anything special about your gems?
All gemstones have a unique speciality and story due to their natural formation. The gems are studied carefully by our team to ensure we deliver the best quality gemstones and jewellery in the desired price range for an individual.
Your favourite gem?
Diamond is our favourite gemstone as we love to add the sparkle of stars on earth for our clients.
How do gemmologists identify gems?
Using various gemmological tools like loupe magnification, spectroscope, refractometer etc., they identify a gemstone by its specific characteristics and properties, such as cut, colour, quality, and clarity.
What are the Big Three in gemology?
The Big Three Gemstones are emerald, sapphire and ruby. Known for their timeless beauty and symbolism, they are favoured choices for various types of jewellery.
Do you manipulate the colours of the stones?
No we do not.
What do you think sets gemmology apart from other scientific disciplines?
One of the things that sets gemmology apart from other scientific disciplines is its focus on aesthetic properties. Gemmologists are interested in the ways that gemstones can be cut and polished to maximize their beauty.
What do you think are the most important discoveries made by gemmologists?
The different type of gemstones discovered by gemmologists thus far is the most important discovery, according to me.
Who is the gemologist you admire most?
Nitu Joshi a GIA (Gemological Institute of America), India Instructor and my teacher who taught me about the world of gemmology. Her in-depth and vast knowledge of every gemstone and love for each inclusion makes me admire her the most.
Contact :
KARNEET KAUR NARANG
Whatsapp no: +918888601601
Email id: kajgems@gmail.com
A.Radhakrishnan is a Pune based freelance journalist, poet and short story writer.