Nestled in the heart of Western India, Kolhapur offers a captivating blend of ancient temples, grand architecture, and vibrant culture. From the revered Mahalakshmi Temple to the majestic New Palace, this city weaves its rich historical tapestry with modern vibrancy. Explore Kolhapur’s dynamic markets, indulge in its renowned cuisine, and immerse yourself in its lively festivals for an unforgettable journey through tradition and progress. Nandini Rao sketches the contours of a fascinating city steeped in history.
Kolhapur, located in Western India in the state of Maharashtra, is often overlooked by tourists visiting India’s iconic cities such as Mumbai and Pune. However, this charming city boasts several ancient temples, magnificent architectural marvels, picturesque tourist spots, and rich historical significance which make it a destination worth exploring.
A city steeped in history and culture, Kolhapur stands as a testament to India’s rich socio-cultural heritage that has enamoured visitors from far and wide. Nestled in the southwestern part of Maharashtra, this city is more than just a dot on the map; it is a living, breathing repository of tradition, art, and architectural grandeur. From its ancient temples to its bustling marketplaces, Kolhapur embodies a unique blend of the old and the new, seamlessly merging its historical roots with the pulse of modern life.
The history of Kolhapur is a captivating saga that dates back centuries ago. Founded by Kolhasur, a demon who was later vanquished by the Goddess Mahalakshmi, the city is believed to be blessed by the deity herself. The Mahalakshmi Temple, a marvel of ancient architecture, remains the city’s spiritual nucleus. Believed to be first built circa 700 AD Chalukyas, the temple is an epitome of architectural brilliance, drawing thousands of devotees and tourists alike.
It is believed that Goddess Mahalakshmi started living here after a fight with her husband i.e. Lord Vishnu. Here, she killed Kolhasur as he used to torment and oppress the locals of the region. It was his dying wish that the place be named after him, hence the name Kolhapur. The beautiful city is located at the banks of the Panchganga River amidst the Sahyadri hills.
The formative years
Kolhapur was ruled by various dynasties including Satavahanas, Rashtrakutas, Kadamba Dynasty, and finally, Marathas. Over time, the city witnessed many battles, invasions, and cultural exchanges resulting in its diverse heritage. During the rule of Shivaji Maharaj, Kolhapur emerged as an important administrative centre, attracting skilled artisans, architects, and warriors from across India.
His legacy still lives on through historic sites in the region reflecting his vision of creating a strong empire. Kolhapur remained under British rule until India gained independence in 1947 but managed to preserve its distinct identity throughout colonial rule thanks to the resilience of its people and rulers.
The Bhonsle dynasty, which ruled Kolhapur from the 18th century, left an indelible mark on the city’s cultural and political landscape. The New Palace, an architectural gem built in 1884, serves as a reminder of the city’s regal past. The architectural style prevalent in Kolhapur reflects centuries of Marathi culture and influence. One of the prime examples of exquisite architecture is the New Palace which is built in black polished stone and took seven years to complete.
This majestic structure, with its Indo-Saracenic style, now houses a museum that offers a glimpse into the life and times of the Bhonsle rulers, showcasing artifacts, weaponry, and memorabilia that narrate the city’s glorious past. The ruling family of Kolhapur princely state, the Bhonsle dynasty, are the descendants of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj – the Great Maratha ruler. It was Chhatrapati Shahaji II Puar who ruled the state of Kolhapur in the end.
The palace houses beautiful gardens, wrestling ground, zoo, lake, etc., and the entire building is eight-angled with a tower in the centre. The famous Darbar Hall is situated in the middle of the palace and its walls have stained glass depicting scenes from the lives of the dynasty rulers including Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. The museum has several rare possessions such as a letter from the British Viceroy and Governor General of India, Aurangzeb’s sword, stuffed tigers and animal heads including that of wild buffalo, lion, black panther, tiger, etc.
Cultural richness
Kolhapur’s cultural ethos is a vibrant mosaic of traditions and practices that have been passed down through generations. The city is renowned for its folk art forms, particularly Lavani and Tamasha, which reflect the exuberance and resilience of its people. Lavani, a traditional dance form of Maharashtra, is characterized by its powerful rhythm and expressive storytelling, often performed to the beats of the dholki. Tamasha, on the other hand, is a form of Marathi theatre that combines dance, music, and drama, providing a window into the socio-political commentary of the times.
The city’s culinary landscape is equally rich and diverse. Kolhapuri cuisine, known for its bold flavours and robust spices, is a gastronomic delight. The famous Kolhapuri misal, a spicy curry made with sprouted moth beans and served with pav, is a must-try for anyone visiting the city.
Kolhapur boasts a unique cuisine influenced by its diverse historical background, blending elements of Maratha and South Indian cooking styles. Visitors can indulge in mouth-watering dishes like Kolhapuri masala rice, Kolhapuri sopara (betel leaves stuffed with minced meat, nuts, and dried fruits), and Panderi halwa (sweet rice flour cake flavored with cardamom).
Street food lovers should try Kolhapur’s famous chat (Indian snacks) and chickpea flour pancakes called Bhakar. Local restaurants serving authentic Kolhapuri fare offer patrons a chance to sample flavorful meals made using traditional recipes passed down through generations.
The unique Kolhapuri chappals, handcrafted leather sandals, are another cultural hallmark, symbolising the city’s artisanal excellence. The region is also known for its unique local jewellery known as Kolhapuri Saaj which is a special type of necklace worn by the women.
Visiting markets in Kolhapur allows travellers to experience daily life in the city and purchase souvenirs featuring local craftsmanship. Kolhapur markets sell everything from clothing to jewellery, handicrafts, toys, and fresh produce. Some markets specialise in silk sarees, cotton fabrics, gold jewellery, and marble artifacts. Tourists seeking bargains should negotiate prices with sellers; however, remember to haggle politely and respectfully.
Kolhapur is famous for hosting numerous cultural festivals year-round. The Ganesh Chaturthi festival celebrated with great enthusiasm showcases giant idols of Lord Ganesha installed temporarily in public spaces within the city. Navratri, another popular event, celebrates nine nights of devotion towards Goddess Durga and involves colourful processions, dance performances, and musical concerts. Kolhapur hosts various drama, music, and dance festivals showcasing talent from across Maharashtra and India, giving locals and tourists alike ample opportunities to immerse themselves in traditional arts forms.
A modern metropolis
Despite its deep historical roots, Kolhapur is not a city trapped in the past. It has evolved into a vibrant metropolis, embracing modernity while preserving its cultural essence. The city’s educational institutions, such as the Shivaji University, have made significant contributions to the field of academia, fostering a spirit of intellectual inquiry and innovation. Shivaji University was established in 1962 and inaugurated on 18th November by the then President of India, Dr. S. Radhakrishnan.
Kolhapur’s thriving industrial sector, particularly its foundries and textile mills, has positioned it as an economic powerhouse in Maharashtra. The city’s markets, abuzz with activity, offer everything from fresh produce to traditional handicrafts. Literary and cultural festivals and events are a testament to the city’s growing prominence on the cultural map, attracting patrons and tourists from across the globe.
Kolhapur is a city that defies easy categorisation. It is a place where history and modernity coexist harmoniously, where the past is not forgotten but revered and integrated into the present. The city’s unyielding spirit, its commitment to preserving its heritage while embracing progress, makes it a unique and captivating destination. Whether it is the call of the ancient temples, the allure of its folk arts, or the promise of a modern metropolis, Kolhapur offers a journey through time and culture that is both enriching and unforgettable.
Religious epicentre
One cannot talk about Kolhapur without mentioning its numerous temples that showcase remarkable craftsmanship and symbolism. Among them is Mahalakshmi Temple, dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi and considered one of the oldest and most revered temples in Kolhapur. Visitors can witness beautiful murals depicting Hindu mythological stories adorned inside the temple walls. Also known as Shri Ambabai Temple, it is one of the three and half Shakti Peeth (a place associated with Shakti, the goddess of power) documented in various Hindu puranas. This makes the Kolhapur Shakti Peeth a place of religious significance.
The idol of Mahalakshmi is mounted on a stone platform and is made of sandstone. In her four hands, Ambabai holds mhalunga (a citrus fruit), a large mace (kaumodaki), a shield (khetaka), and a bowl (panpatra). Here, the deity faces the west so in the evening the rays of the setting sun fall on the face of the deity on specific days, unlike in most temples where the idol faces in the north or east direction.
In the Mahalakshmi Temple, there are several other shrines in the venue including Mahishasuramardini, Vitthal-Rakhmai, Navagrahas, Surya, Krishna, Mahavishnu, Panchanganga, Ram, Laxmi Narayan, Swami Smarth Dashavartar, Khandoba, Atibaleshwar, Kalbhairav, Sinhwahini, Tulja Bhavani, etc., and some of these date back to the eleventh century.
The many temples in the region reflect the city’s deep religious traditions and cultural heritage, making it an essential stop for spiritual seekers. Throughout the year, devotees visit these famous temples which hold immense religious significance as well.
Things to do
Apart from these, Kolhapur offers various attractions for tourists looking for leisure activities or a glimpse of local life. One such attraction is Panhala Fort, perched atop a hilltop overlooking the city. The fort served as a strategic military base and now attracts adventure enthusiasts who climb its steep steps to reach the top and admire panoramic views of Kolhapur city and its surrounding landscapes.
The Panhala Fort is a silent sentinel that has witnessed numerous battles and sieges. Built by the Shilahara dynasty in the 12th century, the fort’s strategic importance is underscored by its massive ramparts and intricate gateways.
The fort is strategically located over a pass in the Sahyadri which, notably, was an important trade route connecting the interiors of Maharashtra to the outside coastal areas. As a result, it was always the centre stage of many fights and battles in the zone particularly involving the Marathas, the Mughals and the British.
Tarabai Ranisaheb, the queen regent of Kolhapur, spent her formative years at Panhala Fort which is also known as the ‘Fort of Snakes’ owing to its zig-zag shape. It was built between 1178 and 1209 CE by Shilahara ruler Bhoja II and was one of the 15 forts built including Satara, Bavda, Vishalgad, etc.
The Panhala Fort is one of the largest in Deccan region expanding to 14 km with 110 lookout posts and built in Bijapuri style of architecture. It has many tunnels underneath the ground of which one is almost a kilometre long.
Additionally, Panchganga Ghat, located near the banks of River Panchganga, provides an ideal spot for picnics, relaxing walks, and photography sessions. It is one of the oldest spots in the city and here the civilisation emerged in Kolhapur along the banks of the historic river. The ghats are idyllic and have a serenading effect. An old temple along the banks of the river is visited by devotees and tourists round the year.
Shivaji Bridge on the river can be seen from the jetty along the banks that offers a breathtaking view of the zone. An annual fair held at the ghat is attended by thousands of people from across Maharashtra, locals and visitors.
The Rankala Lake, an idyllic spot in the heart of the city, is another architectural marvel. Believed to have been constructed during the reign of Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, the lake is surrounded by ancient temples and gardens, offering a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of urban life.
The intricate carvings on the lake’s embankment, depicting various mythological scenes, are a testament to the city’s artistic heritage. The southeast side of the lake opens to the Padmaraje garden and at two spots one can reach the waters at Rajghat and Maratha ghat.
The magnificence
Kolhapur stands tall among India’s lesser-known destinations due to its exceptional blend of spirituality, culture, architecture, and natural beauty. From holy temples to majestic forts and palaces, Kolhapur offers visitors ample opportunities to explore its fascinating past and absorb its vibrant present.
Travelers have multiple transportation options available to reach Kolhapur. Direct trains connect Mumbai to Kolhapur, taking roughly five hours. Alternatively, buses operated by MSRTC and private operators run regularly between Kolhapur and neighbouring cities like Mumbai and Pune.
Taxis and auto-rickshaw services are readily available for short distances within the city. Luxury hotels offering comfortable accommodation cater to tourists’ needs ranging from budget accommodations to upscale resorts equipped with modern amenities. Camping facilities are also available in select locations for adventurous travellers wanting to spend their nights outdoors immersing themselves in nature.
Kolhapur presents itself as a mesmerising destination that encapsulates India’s rich cultural heritage seamlessly. With its stunning temples, incredible architecture, scenic tourist spots, delicious food, vibrant festivals, bustling markets, and warm hospitality, it welcomes visitors from around the world to discover its hidden treasures and bask in its spiritual atmosphere. Traveling through Kolhapur promises to be not only a visual feast but also a journey of self-discovery filled with memorable experiences and invaluable insights into India’s diverse landscape.